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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 4/16/2013 4:03:54 AM
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DIY Traction Bar (ladder bar)
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I was having a problem with braking u-joints, and found that my rear axle was over-torqing so bad it would bind, then brake the differential yoke on the rear axel.
Answer: TRACTION BAR.
Some of you might go out and buy a nice one from 4 Wheel Parts or Off Road Warehouse, NOT ME, I’m cheap.
After looking at a few online, I set forth this plan.
Parts list:
1. 2” x 4” x .120 square tubing 10” long.
2. 1.25 x .090 DOM tubing 36” long. (bottom tube) (it will get shouter)
3. 1.125 x .120 DOM tubing 18” to 30” long (top tube)(taper one end to mate with bottom tube)
4. 1.00 x .250 DOM tubing 14” long (cut 3 pcs. 1.77” long (bosses 1, 2, & 3), the rest becomes slip yoke)
5. (2) light tabs 1.25” x 1.50” x 1/8 Thk (aval at most metal dealer, or make your own)
6. ¾-16 x 6” grade 5 or better bolt and 2 nuts.
7. (3) ½-18 x 2-½ bolts and nuts.
First, I started with a piece of 2”x4”x .120 square tubing and cut it about 10” long with a downward slop on one end. (not necessary but it looked cool)
I also cut two pieces of tubing and three bosses. (see parts list for sizes)
I also need a way to adjust it if needed so I found a ¾” x 6” bolt and 2 nuts.
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Now some of you might have one of them fancy metal band saws or even a gas or plasma cutter, well I don’t so I use what ever means you have to cut a half moon hole (the size of your axle. D44 = 2.5”) and the 2 (1/2” thru) holes for the bar mounts.
You will also need to cut access holes in the front where the tubes will mount.
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Take the ¾ bolt and nut and place the nut about ½ way down (or more) on the bolt. Now put the bolt into the end of the top tube and tack weld the nut to the tube. (just the nut).
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Now take all your pieces and put them together. Place bolts thru the 2x4 tube & bosses #1 & #2 and place small tact welds to keep the tubes in place. Add a tact weld from the bolt head to the top boss. (do not weld the bosses to the 2x4 tube).
Pull the bars out of the 2x4 block and remove the bolt from the tube.
Weld the bolt and boss together and grind off excess bolt head.
Weld nut to top tube and the top tube to bottom tube.
Weld caps to top and bottom of 2x4 block.
Test fit pieces back into 2x4 block.
Weld boss #3 and slip yoke piece together. (90 degrees to each other)
Place the 2 tabs on each side of the boss and bolt in place (leave loose)
Now we left the bottom tube long so we could find the best place to mount the slip yoke.
Take all the piece and put them in place. Use a c-clamp to hold the 2x4 block to the axel and decide where you want to mount the slip yoke. (The more forward the better. I liked the trans cross member) Mark the bottom tube 1” to 2“ away from the slip yoke mount, and cut it off.
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Place the slip yoke into the bottom tube.
Tack weld the tabs to the cross member.
Tack weld the 2x4 block to the axel. (all bolts and slip yoke in place and (lightly) snug tight.
Remove the top tube bolt and the slip yoke bolt and remove slip yoke.
Weld 2x4 block to axel and tabs to cross member.
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Grease the slip yoke and the inside of the tube and reinstall slip yoke and bolts.
Tighten all bolts.
Grab a can of black spray paint and paint in place. ( or remove it and paint if you must)
And with that in place, LETS RIDE! See ya on the trail.
Robert
[quote]Originally posted by geberhard
DISCLAIMER: blah blah blah blah and I am not responsible if you mess up, get hurt, roll your rig over, have a baby, etc etc.
Visit: http://www.magicjack.com
My favorite quote is:"Hold my beer and watch this!" (I never hear it enough)
My RigRater Score: 644RRv1.0 (BOA) 34.37
http://www.jeepaholics.com/rides/view.asp?id=2591
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/16/2013 11:08:52 AM
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Just a note:
I like your design, although I think the main long tube is too thin, but time will tell.
However, watch that mount on the crossmember closely. INCREDIBLE forces will be exerted upon it. I actually TORE the mounting bracket out of my crossmember. Overkill isn't quite enough when it comes to Ladder bars.
One beer at a time...
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Group: Sub-Administrators
Last Login: 12/9/2012 10:13:30 PM
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Pete,
You should see what Rob had.
Looks good, but I agree with Pete, needs a very strong cross-member.
Saw a guy at Moab bend a 2.5" DOM cross-member.(but he was on 39s)
 Proud Member 4RRT
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 4/16/2013 4:03:54 AM
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Thanks Steve, Ya, this is Ver 2.0
As for the strength at the cross member, 1st, I do plan on watching it a lot at first. 2nd, it does have that 1" x .250w tube inside, and mine goes more than 1/2 way back. and 3rd I dont gorilla my way over rock and stuff. With any luck I will only have to rebuild it 1 or 2 more time.
Visit: http://www.magicjack.com
My favorite quote is:"Hold my beer and watch this!" (I never hear it enough)
My RigRater Score: 644RRv1.0 (BOA) 34.37
http://www.jeepaholics.com/rides/view.asp?id=2591
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